5 things I wish I knew when I started surfing
Surfing is often viewed as one of the most difficult sports to master, primarily because the "playing field" is constantly in motion. Unlike a tennis court or a golf green, the ocean rarely offers the same conditions twice, making the repetition required for skill acquisition incredibly elusive. However, after two decades in the water and years spent analyzing the mechanics of the sport, it's clear that there are specific shortcuts and shifts in perspective that can dramatically shorten the learning curve.
The following guide breaks down five essential pillars of progression that address the mental, physical, and technical aspects of the sport. Whether you are just starting out or have been stuck at an intermediate plateau for years, these insights are designed to remove common bottlenecks and help you approach the waves with more confidence and efficiency.
In this video, Kale Brock shares the essential lessons he’s learned over 20 years of surfing to help others fast-track their progress. Here is a summary of the 5 key points:
1. You Can Progress at Any Age
Many people believe that learning complex physical skills becomes harder as you get older, but progression is possible at any stage of life. The "secret sauce" for older learners involves maintaining a positive mindset, increasing your frequency in the water (ideally more than once a week), and seeking quality guidance with a clear, step-by-step roadmap to follow.
2. Overcoming Fear Through Gradual Exposure
Fear is a natural part of surfing, regardless of skill level; even pros feel it on waves that push their limits. The key isn't to wait for fear to vanish, but to use gradual exposure. By surfing waves just slightly outside your comfort zone, you desensitize yourself over time. A great tip for those intimidated by the lineup is to go out for a swim without a board first to build confidence in the water.
3. The Power of Surf Skate Training
Because the ocean is constantly changing, it's hard to get the repetition needed to build muscle memory. Using a surf skate allows you to practice fundamental movements on land in a controlled environment. This is especially effective for intermediate surfers who can visualize how land maneuvers translate to the face of a wave.
4. Don’t Under-Volume Your Surfboard
Many surfers use boards that are too small, leading to premature fatigue and missed waves. Surfers are often "chronically under-volumed" because they fear a bigger board won't be responsive. Experimenting with mid-length performance boards can significantly improve paddling and wave catching without sacrificing as much maneuverability as you might think.
5. Master the Two Fundamental Maneuvers
Almost every advanced move in surfing—including getting barreled or doing airs—is built upon two foundational skills: the bottom turn and the top turn. These movements teach the essential mechanics of compression, extension, and rotation. If you focus on perfecting these two turns on both your forehand and backhand, everything else in your surfing will begin to fall into place.
